The Enduring Legacy of the Waxed Jacket: A Style Icon

The waxed jacket holds a place in British menswear akin to what a trusty Land Rover holds in rural UK landscapes – an indispensable icon. Since the 1930s, it has been an undeniable part of countryside attire, motorcycle culture, and adventurous pursuits.

Beyond its functional roots, the enduring appeal of the waxed jacket lies in its narrative of resilience and authenticity. It’s a garment that actively defies the fleeting trends of fast fashion, instead gaining character and depth with every year of wear, telling a story unique to its owner.

While the original four-pocket waxed cotton field jackets set the standard, the genre has evolved to include contemporary silhouettes like cropped blousons and minimalist designs. Yet, heritage shapes remain hugely popular, celebrated for their unique blend of supreme functionality and flattering form.

Join us as we explore everything you need to know about this British menswear legend, tracing its humble seafaring origins to the finest brands available today.

History Of The Waxed Jacket

Like many indispensable pieces of men’s outerwear, the waxed cotton jacket owes its genesis to naval necessity. As far back as the 15th century, intrepid Scottish tradesmen braved the wild northern seas, sailing between their home country and Scandinavian neighbours, primarily importing flax and linen for the burgeoning weaving industry.

Life on open ships in rough seas was, of course, treacherous. Sailors and sails alike were constantly drenched. However, an ingenious solution emerged: coating the linen sails with fish oils to waterproof them and enhance performance. This proved so effective that the very same oils were soon applied to the sailors' clothing.

Around the 1700s, linseed oil, a convenient by-product of linen manufacture, superseded fish oils. It was more efficient and, thankfully, far less pungent. Sailors ingeniously fashioned full-length capes and hats from sail cut-offs and other waterproofed fabric scraps, periodically reapplying the linseed. This process gave their garments a distinctive bright yellow hue, a colour now synonymous with traditional sailors' attire.

The story progressed when Francis Webster Ltd, a weaving mill, began producing cotton treated with linseed oil, responding to demand from the captains of the famous Tea Clippers – notoriously fast vessels that raced across oceans with precious cargo from China. Yet, it was Webster’s next innovation that truly revolutionised the game.

As the 1930s dawned, Webster embarked on testing a paraffin wax treatment, collaborating with specialists like British Millerain, a cotton finishing expert. This groundbreaking treatment offered superior breathability and significantly longer-lasting proofing than linseed oil. After extensive sea trials off the coast of New Zealand, the paraffin treatment proved exceptionally effective for cotton clothing and was subsequently adopted by the British Army during World War II.

Its popularity surged on Civvy Street post-war, marketed as a rugged, weatherproof fabric ideal for adventurers, motorcyclists, and outdoor workers. British Millerain acquired Francis Webster in 1987 and remains the world’s foremost supplier of waxed cotton fabrics, continually innovating with new finishes and treatments.

Waxed Jacket Purchase Considerations

Jacket Type

Given its strong countryside and outdoor heritage, the most popular and widespread silhouette for the waxed cotton jacket is the classic four-pocket field coat. This versatile style often features a belted option with slanted chest pockets, a common configuration for many waxed motorcycle jackets – the slanted pocket design allows for easier hand access while riding.

The belted version offers a sportier aesthetic, cinching the waist to create a more defined silhouette and visually broadening the shoulders. Two-pocket field jackets, especially longer versions, lean more towards traditional country attire and rugged workwear. Meanwhile, slightly more cropped styles offer greater versatility for transitioning between rural settings and urban environments, like a weekend trip from a country estate to a city break in Manchester or Sydney.

Modern variations include sleek cropped blousons. While they might offer less overall weather protection, they provide a sharp, contemporary shape that pairs seamlessly with modern pieces such as hoodies and black denim, perfect for a casual city outing.

Jacket Details

Traditional details in waxed jackets are predominantly functional. Look for robust storm collar fastenings, a double-zip front for enhanced weather protection, and practical flap bellows pockets secured with popper closures. Some designs also incorporate internal drawstring waistbands for an adjustable fit.

Collar styles vary; classic biker designs often feature a stand-up storm collar for maximum protection, while the two- and four-pocket country styles typically showcase a turn-down collar, frequently cut from a contrasting fabric like corduroy, adding a touch of classic British refinement.

Jacket Lining

Linings are absolutely crucial in waxed jackets, serving as a vital membrane between your clothing and the wax treatment on the outer fabric. Traditionally, these linings were crafted from cotton tartan cloths, themselves treated with a fluorocarbon coating to enhance water repellency and prevent wax transfer.

Many reputable outerwear brands producing waxed jackets today have embraced a modular approach, offering thermal liners that can be zipped or poppered into the jacket. This ingenious design allows for year-round wear, adapting the jacket's warmth to suit varying climates, from a crisp autumn morning in the Cotswolds to a cooler spring day in Vancouver.

Jacket Colour

Most waxed jackets traditionally exist within a narrow colour spectrum of black, various browns, and muddy tans. This is primarily because the paraffin-based wax treatment tends to dull brighter colours. However, advancements now include different ‘wax’ treatments using hydrocarbon coatings that are virtually invisible, allowing for a much broader palette of vibrant cotton dye treatments.

For city wear, a black version is almost always recommended. It presents a smarter, more sophisticated appearance than brown or tan styles and integrates effortlessly with more formal black attire, making it a versatile choice for urban professionals or a night out in London's West End. This evolution in colour, alongside the modular lining systems, underscores the waxed jacket's unique ability to adapt without sacrificing its core identity. It’s a testament to how heritage pieces can be reimagined for modern life, offering both timeless style and contemporary versatility, truly making it a sustainable and stylish investment.

The Best Men’s Waxed Jacket Brands

Belstaff

Founded in Stoke-on-Trent by Eli Belovitch and his son-in-law Harry Grosberg in 1924, Belstaff has an enduring association with waxed and leather motorcycle jackets, outfitting the world’s most intrepid adventurers. Legends like Sammy Miller, Steve McQueen, and Che Guevara were all proud owners of waxed cotton Belstaff jackets.

The four-pocket belted Trialmaster is arguably its most famous and recognisable silhouette, with the Fieldmaster being its unbelted counterpart. The cropped Racemaster style, functioning more like a riding blouson, also holds a special place. In truth, any of Belstaff’s waxed cotton styles will effortlessly integrate into a sophisticated modern wardrobe.

Shop now at SSENSE

Barbour

For over 120 years, the family-run Barbour has been the first name that springs to mind when ‘wax’ and ‘cotton’ are mentioned together. Founded by John Barbour, a Scot from Galloway, the company initially produced oilskins for the naval industry before recognising an opportunity to supply weatherproof garments to the military.

In 1936, Barbour created its first waxed cotton ‘International motorcycle jacket’, a design worn by almost every rider in the International Six Day Trials circuit from the 1950s to the 1970s, including the iconic Steve McQueen. Today, Barbour offers over 50 different versions across its men’s, women’s, and children’s ranges. The Beaufort, Bedale, and Border models epitomise classic country style, beloved by everyone from farmers in rural Yorkshire to city dwellers seeking robust, timeless outerwear.

Shop now at Farfetch

Filson

Established in 1850 in Seattle, Washington, Filson served as the unofficial outfitter for the Great Klondike Gold Rush in 1897, supplying hardy gear to prospectors heading to the rain-soaked Pacific Northwest in search of riches.

Today, Filson continues its legacy, crafting both a short waxed Tin Cloth Cruiser Jacket and a waxed Tin Cloth Field Jacket. Both are constructed from the same water-resistant waxed tin cloth that has protected outdoorsmen for over a century. Lined with a dry finish cloth and featuring polyester-lined sleeves, Filson is renowned for its rugged tan tone, as well as a distinctive navy style, perfect for tackling the wilds of British Columbia or the Australian outback.

Shop now at Filson

Private White V.C.

Born and made in Manchester, Private White V.C. has long championed sustainable fabrics. This commitment is evident in their vocal advocacy for Ventile – an incredibly sophisticated and densely woven cotton fabric used to create their exceptional field and Harrington jackets. While not ‘waxed’ in the traditional sense, Ventile is treated with a durable water repellency finish on both sides, which can be easily topped up annually with products like Nikwax.

Shop now at Private White V.C.

Peregrine

Peregrine has been a family-run business since 1796, a testament to the enduring quality and craftsmanship of their garments. Peregrine’s three-pocket waxed cotton Bexley jacket is expertly constructed from antique 8oz British Millerain cloth, offering a stunning worn-in aesthetic that only improves with each re-waxing.

Available in gunmetal, brown, black, and mustard, its storm collar detail and gun shoulder patch provide the necessary country credentials for challenging weather. Yet, the jacket’s slim-cut silhouette also transitions seamlessly to weekend wear in the city, making it a versatile staple for any wardrobe, from a country walk in Surrey to a casual brunch in Melbourne.

Shop now at Peregrine

Drake’s

London-based Drake’s is perhaps best known for its exquisite handmade ties and soft-shouldered tailoring, but in recent years, it has cultivated an impressive reputation for its outerwear, too.

Its waxed cotton jackets are proudly produced in the UK, utilising British Millerain cloth. They are cut in relaxed, utility-inspired shapes that pay homage to classic field and hunting styles. Expect practical detailing – robust bellows pockets, protective storm flaps, and signature corduroy collars – all infused with Drake’s unmistakable refinement.

The result is waxed outerwear that is as effortlessly at ease worn over a sharp suit in a city like Toronto as it is paired with selvedge denim and sturdy boots for a weekend escape.

Shop now at Drake’s

Baracuta

Renowned for creating the iconic G9 Harrington jacket back in 1937, Baracuta has long been a cornerstone of British outerwear. While the classic G9 is typically crafted from cotton-poly blends, the brand has brilliantly reimagined its legendary silhouette in durable waxed cotton fabrics, in collaboration with British Millerain.

The result is a fusion of that instantly recognisable Fraser tartan lining and distinctive umbrella yoke with the water-resistant resilience of waxed cloth. It’s a piece that expertly bridges heritage appeal with mod-culture cool, equally at home complementing smart tailoring or rugged denim, embodying true British style.

Shop now at Baracuta